Work On F-00060 Left Instrument Panel Section Begins

Yesterday, Bernie swung by the hangar to lend a hand with the final fitting of the canopy. We needed to remove and replace the canopy a hand full of times before the canopy could be opened fully without contacting any metal it was not supposed to touch. Most of the problem was interference from the bottom edge of the canopy lay-up  touching the longeron/ fuselage side skin as the canopy approached fully open. Not wanting to get too aggressive, the lay-up on the lower forward portion of the canopy arm was sanded a little, test fit and sanded some more until the fit was acceptable. Basically a curve was sanded into the lay-up.

Bernie holding the canopy assembly open while I marked the area of interference with a Sharpie pen.

Unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo of the finished shape of the canopy arms so will need to edit this post later and post a photo of the final shape.

Now that the canopy is fitted, it will be set aside so there will be easier access for installing the instruments and wiring along with modifying each of the three panel sections. Not having the canopy fairing totally fitted has been holding me up some because all three of the panel sections will require some cutting … however, it has been necessary to keep the instrument panel sections screwed in place to hold the shape of the upper forward fuselage skin.

The plan is to add two rocker switches to the DOG Aviation RV-12 … one to control the electric fuel pump and the other to control the additional left landing light. I have opted to keep the left landing light switched so as to not overtax the electrical system. The wig- wag function will be controlled by the pulse switch already a part of the RV-12’s electrical wiring and this requires no additional power to operate the left light because only one landing light is illuminated at a time during wig-wag operation. However, do not want the left landing light to go steady on along with the right landing light, so it is being wired to a separate switch … should I need the landing light for a night landing, it can be turned on during short final, then off again when back on terra firma.

My original thought was to place the fuel switch above the AV-50002 ignition & start module and the left landing light switch in the glove box panel to the right of the existing switches in the center panel. However, upon review of “the look” … the left landing light switch would be an orphaned switch because of the spacing necessary to clear the mounting bracket for the panels. So have decided to install it above the ignition module adjacent to the fuel pump switch. A paper cutout was made utilizing the same switch spacing as the ignition A&B switches and there is just enough room for the two additional switches to be placed directly above the ignition switches. This should give the instillation a cohesive look and also provide sufficient room for switch labeling.

Planned mounting area for the two additional switches spaced the same and directly above the two ignition switches.

The paper cutout my finger is pointing towards represents the total space taken up by the existing two ignition switches including separation and bezels. As can be seen in the photo, there is enough room to place the two additional switches inline and directly above the ignition switches … this mounting location should create a cohesive look.

While having the F-00060 left instrument panel in hand decided to go ahead and countersink the #40 rivet holes for the nutplates and the F-00061 stiffener. Van’s calls for countersinking ALL of the panel’s mounting holes for flush #6 screws … however, I’m opting to change the look a bit and will either go with stainless Allen cap head screws or Torx pan head screws.

Machine countersinking rivet holes in the F-00060 left instrument panel using the countersink cage outfitted with a #40 100 degree countersink bit.

The plan is to get the instrument panel pieces powder coated so decided to have all the rivets in place prior to powder coating. The six nutplates and F-00061 stiffener were riveted onto the F-00060 left panel.

Riveting one of the six nutplates onto the F-00060 left instrument panel section.

Completed riveting of the nutplates and F-00061 stiffener onto the F-00060 left instrument panel section.

All that is left to do to the F-00060 panel is finalize the position of the additional switches and cut the two holes for the additional switches and it will be ready for powder coating.

Drilling Center Panel Using Template For The Knobs Kit

Yesterday was another day of performing various small tasks. The hope was to get in a quick paint session, but the weather never cooperated … rain and mist pretty much the entire afternoon put the brakes on that task.  In the interim, the lay-up on the forward lower portion of the canopy arms was sanded on both sides of the canopy to hopefully relieve the contact with the fuselage side skin when the canopy is opened fully.  Unfortunately, did not have a helper to test the fit after sanding so moved onto other tasks.

Early in the firewall forward plans, the battery is to be mounted and two 1 1/16" spacers are required to be made from a piece of .058 x 5/16" tubing. The tubing was already primed so the spacers were cut on the band saw and filed to size and are now also ready for topcoat painting.

Looking for something else to do, decided to devote some attention to the center panel. Many months ago a little time was spent working with the template for the auto pilot panel and knobs panel. Builders of E-LSA RV-12's take note: The positioning being utilized for  the location of AP & knobs panels in the DOG Aviation RV-12 is being changed from the plans and, as such, do not follow the rules for E-LSA.   Normally, both units are installed in the center panel spaced directly above and centered with the Garmin GTR200 radio. However, because the DOG Aviation RV-12 is being built as E-AB, the plan is to incorporate a backup air speed indicator during the build and hopefully shoehorn it into the center panel by shifting the template for the AP & Knobs panels to the far left and mounting the airspeed indicator to the right of the AP & Knobs panels.

The center panel was temporarily mounted so lines could be marked onto the panel from the inside defining the available space between the radio and the upper fuselage skin and the side to side space between the mounting brackets. It appears there will just barely be enough room for all three units to coexist above the Garmin radio … so drilling of the center panel began.

Horizontal lines were drawn for alignment based off the slot for the radio and the knobs panel template was moved as close as possible to the left mounting bracket factoring in the space required for the nutplates. Next the template was secured with Cleco clamps and measurements were taken for the backup airspeed indicator … which fortunately, should barely fit in the remaining available space. Next the holes in the template were drilled and the cutouts marked with a red sharpie.

Drilling the holes on the drill press for the AP & knobs panels using the provided template as a guide for hole locations. These holes are to be drilled using a #27 drill bit.

Center panel after drilling all the #27 holes. Looking closely at the photo one can see red Sharpie markings in the template slots ... this denotes where the cutouts need to be made.

The center point for the backup airspeed indicator was determined and a #30 hole was drilled … this hole will be enlarged and become the pilot hole for a 2 1/4" panel hole punch. After the center point was determined, a line was extended out to the right glove box panel so the centerline for a backup altimeter could be established.

The center panel temporarily set in place so the centerline of the backup airspeed indicator could be transferred onto the right glove box panel. Quick temporary lines were drawn for planning the approximate location of the backup altimeter and perhaps a vertical speed indicator.

Preparing Firewall Forward Parts For Instillation

The last few days had been a mixed bag of tasks at DOG Aviation … most of which not worth mentioning. Yesterday, with the help of Mike the canopy was lifted on and off the fuselage a few times as the canopy fairing lay-up over the canopy arms was slowly sanded down until the canopy could be opened fully without hitting the upper forward fuselage skin.  One area of concern was noted … as the canopy began opening further, the bottom forward edge of the canopy lay-up began to interfering with the edge of the side skin and longeron on both sides of the fuselage because of the angle of movement. Have decided to just radius the forward lower edge of the canopy lay-up on the canopy arms much the same as the top of the arms until the interference is cleared. Will likely begin the process of tweaking that later today.

Another item I wanted to get prepped for a top coat of paint is the frame for the oil cooler. The FF-1212 oil cooler frame receives dimples on the inside edge where it attached onto the FF-1214 oil cooler faceplate. The FF-1214 receives the most attention because the #40 rivet holes are to be machine countersunk on the forward surface and there the FF-1212 oil cooker frame mates in the inside edge of the faceplate.

Machine countersinking the FF-1214 oil cooler faceplate using a #40 100 degree countersink bit.

After the necessary countersinks and dimples were made, the two pieces were riveted together … the nutplate rivet holes are to be left open at this time.

Riveting the FF-1212 oil cooler frame onto the FF-1214 oil cooler faceplate using AN426AD3-3.5 rivets.

Now the parts are ready to be top coated with POR 15 white engine enamel ... if it stops raining long enough this afternoon to have a quick paint session for the small handful of firewall forward parts remaining to paint.

Rotax 912 ULS – Documentation & More Documentation

Because working on installation of the Rotax 912 ULS engine is right around the corner, decided over the weekend that it would be in my best interest to visit the Rotax site and download all the pertinent manuals and service bulletins. Each one of the manuals was printed and placed in a binder. Have to say Rotax does provide an abundance of documentation. However, finding some information can be a little helter skelter because it can be scattered between the manuals, but it is seemingly all there.

Rotax 912 ULS documentation from left to right … Illustrated Parts Catalog, Heavy Maintenance Manual, Operators Manual, Line Maintenance Manual and Instillation Manual.

Each of the manuals has information that can often be found in another manual … but one unlikely manual stands out for being a great quick source of information and that is the Illustrated Parts Catalog. In addition to showing the parts lay-out and part numbers of the Rotax 912 ULS engine's components, the Illustrated Parts Catalog is also a good resource for torque values for the Rotax engine’s nuts and bolts, along with identifying special sealants or lubricants that are required. As an example, the default torque value for a typical M6 screw is 90 inch pounds (listed in the front of the catalog), this default value will not be shown on the drawings … However, say the required torque for that particular M6 screw is a non-standard 115 inch pounds, the Illustrated Parts Catalog will show the non-standard torque value for the screw at that location and will also identify if any special sealant or lubricant is required. Very handy!  The only downside to this manual is it is the only support manual that is not available entirely in English … there are pages of German intermixed with pages of English which adds an interesting flair when sifting through the catalog.

The Line Maintenance Manual will see a lot of use … it is the main reference for performing required engine inspections. The Line Maintenance Manual contains inspection checklists, plus spells out inspection intervals, guidelines for making various scheduled and unscheduled inspections, along with spelling out replacement intervals for various parts that have a useful life time limit such as rubber hoses, fuel pump, etc.

The Operators Manual is much the same as an automobile’s owners manual in that it defines recommendations for fuel, coolant and oil, along with providing checklists, operating instructions and limits for the Rotax 912 ULS engine.

The Instillation Manual is a reference for the instillation requirements of the Rotax 912 ULS and support hardware such as the oil tank and radiator. Of course, Van’s has already worked out these details for the RV-12 builder … but it is a handy manual to use as reference.

The Heavy Maintenance Manual is, as the name implies, for doing major engine work. Serious engine teardown is not for the timid and best left to an authorized repair facility that has the myriad of specialty tools required to work on the guts of this engine.

Final Fitting Of Canopy Fairing - Tweaking For Good Clearances

Today, with the help of Mike and Bernie, the canopy was placed back onto the fuselage and bolted in place. The canopy was slowly raised while under careful supervision until interference with the upper forward fuselage skin was noted.  The forward portion of the lay-up on the canopy arms were hitting the upper fuselage skin (no surprise here I had left the lay-up slightly long). But what was unexpected is there was also a little snagging of the instrument panel as well.

Bernie and Mike lending a hand with the fitting of the canopy fairing back onto the fuselage.

The canopy was unbolted then removed so the forward edge of the fairing that extended beyond the end of the canopy arm could be sanded a little shorter and the upper edge was rounded a little more. This needed to be done on both sides. Addressing the snagging of the instrument panel it was determined it was caused by a few small lumps of resin that had dripped down from the edge of the canopy glass forming tiny stalactites. These were easily sanded down to the level of the Plexiglas and fixed the issue.

The second test fit showed that the snagging of the instrument panel was solved … however, the canopy arm still touched the upper forward fuselage skin but this time the canopy was almost fully open. The canopy was removed again and the upper forward edge of both canopy arms were rounded down a little more to what should be the final shape.  Unfortunately, lost my helpers so will need to verify the fit later but feel it is good to go.

In the very near future the intake manifolds and carburetors on the Rotax 912 engine will need to be removed so the cooling shroud can be trimmed to size and installed. Decided I wanted to paint the cooling shroud the same color as the green valve covers. Not wanting to use rattle can paint nor have a custom paint mixed, I was able to find an engine paint that was somewhat close to the green used on the valve covers. POR15 engine enamel in a Buick green #42058 is a little lighter green but should go well with the valve covers. Plus, the cooling shroud will be mostly covered anyway.

The POR 15 engine enamel in a Buick green # 42058 although not a perfect match it is close enough.

They say the POR 15 engine paint can be brushed on and the brush marks will flow out …. For the most part that is true. Not wanting to mess with the spray gun for only one piece opted to brush the paint on. This is the first time I have used the paint so like anything new, there is a learning curve. I knew not to work out of the can and to pour a small amount in a separate container. The paint is a little on the thick side and it should have been thinned a little because I quickly discovered the paint skins over very rapidly. Once brushed onto the surface to be painted, it set up so quickly it was almost impossible to keep a skinless wet edge or go back and touch up an area without leaving some marks. Thinning a little would likely have helped the skinning issue but spraying is probably the best route to go.

The cooling shroud after painting … the paint is still wet but one can tell the shade of the POR 15 Buick green is a little lighter green than the valve covers. Although not a really close match, I went for it anyway.

The DOG Aviation procurement department also picked up some POR 15 engine enamel in white for the firewall forward parts. Think I will spray it on those parts as opposed to brushing.

Cutting Of Canopy Fairing Completed – I Think

Yesterday, the canopy fairing was cut down to the final shape of the trim template. A piece of paper was cut 2 3/8" wide to bridge the gap between the left and right side template markings so a straight cut line could be drawn onto the  canopy fairing's bridge lay-up to connect the two sides. Once again, the Dremel outfitted with a cutting wheel was used to make the cuts.

Using the Dremel outfitted with a cutting wheel to carefully cut the excess fiberglass material off the canopy fairing’s bridge lay-up.

If I were to pass along tips that worked for me, it would be to use a couple of clicks down from top RPM speed and once cutting, continually move the Dremel at a fair speed. It will cut through most of the fiberglass material on the first pass but likely will not go through all of it evenly. However, if you slow up you will be doing yourself a disservice, because the heat generated will melt the resin and the stickiness tends to bind the cutting wheel making it hard to move. I found it a lot easier to make a fast deep pass at a higher RPM then go back and spot tweak at a lower RPM until all the material was cut. By using a moderately lower RPM for tweaking the cut, if the material snagged the wheel, it would not tend to pull the Dremel out of your hands … instead, it would just stall the motor.

The cuts were made a little outside of the line and the remaining material was removed by hand sanding with the Dura-Block using 80 and 180 grit sandpaper. Have to say, the Dura-Block was all that was needed to shape the fairing to the cut line. Used the big round edge on the large curve, the flat sides on the straight edges and the wedge tip on the small inside curve.

Sanding the canopy fairing’s bridge lay-up using the Dura-Block covered with 80 grit sandpaper.

The completed canopy fairing cut to final shape. The fiberglass over the arms was left a little long so that area may require some trimming. Also still need to do a little smoothing where the fiberglass meets the canopy skirt … but at this point the canopy is airworthy and the project is a long way off from paint so will deal with that much later down the road.

The canopy assembly still needs to be placed back onto the fuselage and slowly opened so a check can be made to insure there are no areas of interference. If there is interference, the canopy needs to be removed and trimmed accordingly to remove fiberglass material from the interfering areas. Mike said he could give me a hand placing the fairing on the fuselage today. So hopefully with Mike's help, the canopy fit can be checked and fine tuned if necessary today to finish off this part of the RV-12's construction.