The air shroud is almost low enough … my finger is pointing towards the marks that need to be made level with the fin on the cylinder.
After the above photo was taken, a little more material was removed from the center of the air shroud to clear a ridge that makes up the seam for the two crankcase halves. This allowed the air shroud to drop to the right level. Time to move on.
Before removing the air shroud for the last time, two lines need to be traced across the crankcase where the air shroud sits. These lines will be used as a guide for the high temperature silicone that will be used to bed the air shroud creating an air seal.
Another step prior to installing the engine mount requires removing the four water hoses that attach to the water pump housing. A new tool was used to remove the hose clamps … it worked out OK, but not as well as the $500 one we used in the engine class.
Adjusting the position of the hose clamp removal tool on one of the hose clamps. These tools don’t slip and will lock so both hands can be free to move the clamp on the hose.
All four water hoses removed from the water ports.
The last item to remove from the engine prior to installing the engine mount involves removing a long cap head screw that screws into the crankcase through the upper right mounting location. This M10 cap screw doubles as the upper right engine mounting screw and also as a screw that holds the two crankcase halves together.
Removing the M10 cap screw from what will be the upper right mounting location for the engine mount.
The engine is now ready to receive the WD-1220 engine mount.