Sunday, August 26, 2012

Dimpling Stabilator’s Aft Skin & Ribs

After completing the task of breaking the edges of the F-1279 L&R skins (a step which was omitted from the plans) work began on the stabilator’s aft skins.
                     Removing blue film to prepare the edge of the F-1279-R for the Cleaveland edge breaking tool.

The plans call for match drilling the stabilator’s aft skins to the ribs so the ribs were numbered to assure correct orientation for final assembly. Just as before in the anti-servo tabs, the last trailing hole in the ribs are not drilled. This is because the same rib can be installed facing inboard or outboard … because the trailing holes in the skins are offset slightly to prevent the rivets from hitting each other at the narrow point in the trailing edge, it is necessary to match drill using the trailing edge holes in the skin as a guide.
                                                            Match drilling the stabilator’s aft skins to the ribs.

After match drilling and deburring the aft skin and ribs it was time to break both of the skin’s leading edges and then dimple both aft skins and the four ribs for the 120 degree flush rivets being used on the RV-12. Three dimpling methods were used depending on access. Pneumatic squeezer, hand pop rivet tool and dies with a hole in them used with a nail, dies and a C-clamp for the trailing edge hole where things are really tight.
                                                            Dimpling the ribs using the hand pop rivet tool.
                                  Dimpling the last hole at the narrow end of the rib requires the C-clamp and dies.
                                                                        Dimpling dies C-clamp setup.

Was able to dimple all the holes in both aft skins and their ribs without any issues. Next up is dimpling the stabilator’s main skins then on to primer.
                                       Dimpled ribs and aft skins and the tools that were used to make the dimples.