The stabilator hinges are drilled using the opposite end of the template used for drilling the anti-servo tab hinges. The plans call out not drilling two holes on each hinge so that location is covered with blue tape. If the marking was done right, when rotating the hinges around the two blue tape marks should line up.
Hinges are a mirror image of each other so the
tape marks should line up if one of the hinges is flipped around.
Drilling stabilator hinges using the drilling
Drilled and deburred stabilator hinges.
After the hinges are drilled, they both get
mounted on upper and lower flanges of the right stabilator skin. The two holes that
were omitted on each hinge using the blue tape will now get match drilled using
a hole in the skin as a guide. In addition, one additional hole is also match drilled
using the stabilator skin’s inboard third hole in as a guide.
Left and right hinges Clecoed to stabilator skin
ready for match drilling three holes on each
hinge. The two holes omitted while
drilling with the template and one additional hole.
Match drilling stabilator hinges using the
stabilator’s skin holes as guides.
Not having anything left to do on the stabilator
before priming, decided to work on some of the tail cone parts. There is a J
stiffener which comes with three stiffeners that need do be separated. The part
was to long for the band saw so used a metal snip to cut one of the attaching
tabs but had to use a cut off wheel to cut the tabs where the “J” curve is.
Using a metal cutoff wheel to separate the three
One of the first items in the tail cone plans
calls for breaking the edge of the tail cone’s top, bottom, and side skins. I
have a new tool for doing this sold by Cleaveland Aircraft Tool … but have
never used this type of edge breaking tool before. So thought it would be a
good idea to bone up a little and play a bit on a spare piece of aluminum
before turning myself lose on the tail cone skins.
The Cleaveland edge breaking tool has two
rollers … one of which (the roller on the right) has a small taper on the lower
portion of the wheel which can be seen in the following photo. The small taper
on the wheel when rolled down the outer edge of the metal places a small few
degree downward taper on the skin’s outer edge. The purpose for this is to help make tight
joints where skins overlap each other. Without the small “break” on an overlapping
joint, the riveting process has a tendency to pull the skin upward slightly along
the rivet line. Breaking the edge prior to riveting helps keep the skin snug to
the surface being overlapped.
The tendency is to over adjust the tool. The
tool is easy to adjust … basically slide
the very outer edge of the rollers over the material to be broken and adjust
the tool so the rollers just touch the material. Once adjusted, start at the
edge to be broken and make sure the edge of the metal to be broken is riding
along the raised ridge or guide on the far inside of the wheel and pull the
tool smoothly and evenly along the edge to be broken. Do not tilt the tool up
or down … just drag it straight back and let the tool do the work. It pulls fairly easily but I read on one
builder’s site that putting a little WD-40 on a rag and lubing the metal with a
thin coat helps. Will give that a try tomorrow.
The Cleaveland edge breaking tool … the tapered
roller which creates
“the break” can be seen on the lower portion of the right
The break can be seen clearly as light under the
straight edge at the outer edge of the skin.