Breaking down the RV-12’s roll bar assembly for deburring and machine countersinking. Note the tags placed on the bottom aft holes of the F-1231B&C straps to insure correct orientation during reassembly.
Deburring the F-1231B roll bar strap with the
hand deburring tool.
Deburring an inside rivet hole on a F-1231A roll
bar frame by manually
turning the shaft of an angle drill attachment outfitted
with a deburring bit.
Holes on the outer flanges of all four F-1231A roll
bar frames receive machine countersinking because they will lie under the rear
window or canopy. The countersink cage outfitted with a #30-120 degree countersink
bit was used to countersink all of the rivet holes on the outer flanges of the
four F-1231A roll bar frames to accommodate flush 4-4 pop rivets … with one exception. The rivet holes at the base
of each frame that are common to the roll bar mounting are NOT machine
countersunk.
Machine countersinking the outer flanges on one
of the F-2131A roll bar frames
using a countersink cage outfitted with a #30-120
degree countersink bit.
One thing I've noticed about the flush 4-4 pop
rivets Van’s supplies with the RV-12 kit is the heads are slightly smaller than
the Gesipa 4-3 pop rivets being used on the project. I knew this, but forgot to
back off the countersink cage a few clicks … so the first hole countersunk
ended up being a little deeper then optimum ... oh well, at least I noticed.
Also suggest builders stop the countersinking prematurely in the areas
where the curves are on the F-1231A frames and check the countersink depth.
Because of the curvature of the frames, the countersink depth can easily end up
deeper than those on the flat areas … so adjust your technique accordingly.